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Cesaria Evora in Argentina

Barefoot In The Pampas


Buenos Aires 

19/04/2000 - 

Legendary Cape Verdean diva Cesaria Evora kicked off her second tour of Argentina in the heart of Patagonia on April 12th. Cesaria's performance in Neuquen won instant acclaim in the regional newspaper "El Rio Negro" whose headlines proclaimed "Cesaria casts out her nets and brings in an exceptional haul!"



Cesaria’s appearance in Patagonia caused a major stir and, needless to say, the local press was full of praise for this "magical singer" who bewitched her audience with charm and charisma. "El Rio Negro" observed that "This apparently calm and tranquil woman was suddenly overcome with sheer jubilation, as if she could not quite believe that here so far from home, everyone would fall so easily into the net she cast out and pulled in, cast out and pulled in, drawing the audience in with the rhythm of her songs.". The regional daily also published a special poem to mark the occasion, its dramatic Declaration of Love for Cizé proclaiming: "It's so beautiful to weep in the half-light (...) to feel the current sweeping us up and carrying us towards the earth's abandoned (...) bearing us towards those who sell their souls for a handful of coins in the streets of Neuquen".

Following this enthusiastic reception in Patagonia, Cesaria moved on to the Argentine capital where she performed at the "Gran Rex". The singer is already familiar with the capital as she performed here last year, bringing the house down at La Trastienda (a relatively small venue in Buenos Aires). The Cape Verdean diva had originally been booked to play three evenings at La Trastienda but, after word of her presence in town got round, she was asked to play another three. It was in Buenos Aires that Cesaria met the legendary South American diva Mercedes Sosa aka la Negra, the diva from the Andean provinces. What’s more, on the evening of her arrival in Buenos Aires Cesaria was treated to a surprise meal in the Avellaneda neighbourhood, the Cape Verdean community turning out in force to prepare her a special asado and present her with a collection of tango records (a music Cesaria loves because its melancholic melodies closely resemble the morna).

Cape Verdean immigrants (first and second generation included) number almost 8,000 in Argentina today. "There were two major waves of immigration after each world war," explains 38-year-old Miriam, former director of the Cape Verde association. "They were mostly fishermen and dockers so they established a community around the port (in Buenos Aires)." Miriam is a great fan of Cesaria's mornas and coladeiras, having listened to them for years now: "When people came over from Cape Verde,"she recalls, "they'd bring all these cassettes with them and we used to pass them round between us, guarding them like precious treasures. It's an extraordinary event - in fact, a really historic moment for us - to have an African singer performing at a venue in Buenos Aires. The other good thing about Cesaria's concert is that it gives Argentina the chance to re-discover roots which it has tended to obscure in the past.".

On Thursday night Miriam, together with family and friends, was in the front row at the "Gran Rex". In fact, the "Gran Rex" - a huge venue with seating capacity for 3,000 - was packed to bursting with Cesaria's Cape Verdean fans. This massive turn-out obviously touched Cape Verde's greatest diva who announced that the presence of so many fans"makes my return to Argentina an even greater joy!" . The barefoot diva went on to share her pleasure with the audience throughout her show, shooting her fans happy grins and secret signs of acknowledgement. Cesaria opened her concert with two of her most famous mornas, Sodade and Flor de nha esperanca which wafted waves of soft nostalgia across her enraptured audience. Luiza proved to be another emotional high point of the evening, Cesaria moving the crowd with her wonderful, full-bodied vocals accompanied by violin, a pair of guitars and the haunting sound of the cavaquinho (a small stringed instrument similar to the guitar). 

When Cesaria reached her rousing finale, Nho Antone Escaderode, the crowd rose to their feet with one accord and broke into thunderous applause which was promptly followed by a burst of ecstatic dancing. After leaning down to pick up the numerous bouquets of flowers strewn across the stage, Cizé spread her arms open wide, gave a huge grin and wiggled her hips from side to side in a gesture of happiness and thanks. This brought on a standing ovation from the audience, who instantly erupted into a frenzied clapping of hands and stamping of feet, hoping that their euphoric appreciation would earn them another encore. Sadly, the diva did not reappear. Hearts brimming with the haunting sound of Cizé's vocals and sweet nostalgia for their distant homeland, fans were simply left with the phantom trace of a pair of famous bare feet …

French text: Claude Mary
English version: Julie Street